Whats your favorite car?
- LightningCountX
- Joined: Tue May 20, 2003 8:35 am
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- Toecutter
- Joined: Wed Jun 11, 2003 2:21 am
- Location: Oregon
I know what you mean. I sold my '68 GTO for an '86 IROC-Z t-top. Man, I don't know what those engineers at GM were thinking, but that car is a piece of crap! The unibody construction is so weak, the body rattles, squeaks, and in my case, shakes like crazy. The brake system is garbage (my e-brake is useless, and my RH rear brake caliper binds and grinds away at the rotor when I make right turns). I've installed a new master cylinder, e-brake cables, new front rotors, machined the rear rotors, bled the entire brake system, and the brake pedal still travels all the way to the floor, except on really hot days.
My A/C doesn't work, the engine (the crappy, 190hp TPI 305 V8) needs a rebuild, and can't oil the valvetrain at idle (a problem that persisted on the LT-1 for the '93-'96 Camaros/Firebirds). Also, the first owner was stupid enough to run the thing into a head-on collision, and the second owner decided to use the cheapest, crappiest American replacement fascia and hood available (the Goodmark, EDP coated stuff actually uses GM's patented tooling, which they have rights for, and is the best stuff on the market, which goes for about the same price, and is made in Taiwan!).
Even when the IROC-Z Camaros were in their best (the 1990 models, with the 225hp 350 TPI V8, and the 1LE option package), they were basically mimicking the crappiest Nissan riceburners, with their all-plastic interior, fake dual exhaust (a 2.5" horribly-bent single exhaust pipe, running to a 1-2 muffler), and horribly-aligned fiberglass. What's really funny, is the fact a third-gen Camaro in all it's Unibody and fiberglass glory, still weights a couple hundred pounds more than a '70 Chevelle SS (with the LS6 454).
My A/C doesn't work, the engine (the crappy, 190hp TPI 305 V8) needs a rebuild, and can't oil the valvetrain at idle (a problem that persisted on the LT-1 for the '93-'96 Camaros/Firebirds). Also, the first owner was stupid enough to run the thing into a head-on collision, and the second owner decided to use the cheapest, crappiest American replacement fascia and hood available (the Goodmark, EDP coated stuff actually uses GM's patented tooling, which they have rights for, and is the best stuff on the market, which goes for about the same price, and is made in Taiwan!).
Even when the IROC-Z Camaros were in their best (the 1990 models, with the 225hp 350 TPI V8, and the 1LE option package), they were basically mimicking the crappiest Nissan riceburners, with their all-plastic interior, fake dual exhaust (a 2.5" horribly-bent single exhaust pipe, running to a 1-2 muffler), and horribly-aligned fiberglass. What's really funny, is the fact a third-gen Camaro in all it's Unibody and fiberglass glory, still weights a couple hundred pounds more than a '70 Chevelle SS (with the LS6 454).
GoatMan
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- Toecutter
- Joined: Wed Jun 11, 2003 2:21 am
- Location: Oregon
As bad as this sounds, the best all-American platform to customize on a budget for mild street performance would be an '88-'93 Dodge Dynasty/Chrysler New Yorker, or the mid-sized versions, the Dodge Spirit/Plymouth Acclaim.
The mid-sized and full-sized cars are sturdy chassis-based vehicles. Except for the crappy 3.0L Mistubishi engine option, the remaining available engines are all Mopar (the 2.2L I-4, 2.5L I-4, 3.3L V6, and the rare 3.8L V6). For some of the Dodge/Chrysler/Plymouth mid and full-sized cars, the 2.2L and 2.5L were turbocharged (the Turbo III models were only produced in Mexico, using a MPFI system, while the Turbo I and Turbo II systems were all-American, TBI engines).
The 2.5L is the most reliable engine ever created! I've run a Dodge Dynasty with the 2.5L with barely any coolant for 5 miles, to the point the engine shut down, and after the cylinder head gasket was replaced, and fluid refilled, the engine was in perfect working order again. The 2.5L is basically a stroked version of the 2.2L, with shorter flat-top pistons. This engine, naturally aspirated, puts out 137 lb-ft of torque at 2800 rpm, with just over 110 hp around the 4000's.
There's not much performance-wise one can do to the 2.5L, which is by far the best choice (the 3.3L and 3.8L have way too many reliability issues to be a decent daily driver engine). However, with a simple ram-air induction system, MSD Blaster coil, 2 1/4", mandrel-bent exhaust system, and tweaking the ignition timing to 15º BTDC, a 20-30 hp gain should be achieved.
Given the vehicle's weight (around 2,800 lbs), the optional computer adjusted air-ride suspension system found on quite a few of these vehicles, and the ease of swapping the standard rear-drum brakes for Chrysler New Yorker rear discs, it's the perfect economy/luxury sedan for performance modifications. If the external chrome and stock paint/emblems are kept, the vehicle could easily pass as a "grandma car", being the perfect sleeper.
The mid-sized and full-sized cars are sturdy chassis-based vehicles. Except for the crappy 3.0L Mistubishi engine option, the remaining available engines are all Mopar (the 2.2L I-4, 2.5L I-4, 3.3L V6, and the rare 3.8L V6). For some of the Dodge/Chrysler/Plymouth mid and full-sized cars, the 2.2L and 2.5L were turbocharged (the Turbo III models were only produced in Mexico, using a MPFI system, while the Turbo I and Turbo II systems were all-American, TBI engines).
The 2.5L is the most reliable engine ever created! I've run a Dodge Dynasty with the 2.5L with barely any coolant for 5 miles, to the point the engine shut down, and after the cylinder head gasket was replaced, and fluid refilled, the engine was in perfect working order again. The 2.5L is basically a stroked version of the 2.2L, with shorter flat-top pistons. This engine, naturally aspirated, puts out 137 lb-ft of torque at 2800 rpm, with just over 110 hp around the 4000's.
There's not much performance-wise one can do to the 2.5L, which is by far the best choice (the 3.3L and 3.8L have way too many reliability issues to be a decent daily driver engine). However, with a simple ram-air induction system, MSD Blaster coil, 2 1/4", mandrel-bent exhaust system, and tweaking the ignition timing to 15º BTDC, a 20-30 hp gain should be achieved.
Given the vehicle's weight (around 2,800 lbs), the optional computer adjusted air-ride suspension system found on quite a few of these vehicles, and the ease of swapping the standard rear-drum brakes for Chrysler New Yorker rear discs, it's the perfect economy/luxury sedan for performance modifications. If the external chrome and stock paint/emblems are kept, the vehicle could easily pass as a "grandma car", being the perfect sleeper.
GoatMan
was here!
was here!
- KungPaoChicken
- Joined: Wed Jul 10, 2002 12:41 pm
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teh sexy.
I've sold out: http://www.livejournal.com/~dyslexictom
Website: http://www.geocities.com/kungpaochicken@sbcglobal.net/ Update: 01/02/04
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Website: http://www.geocities.com/kungpaochicken@sbcglobal.net/ Update: 01/02/04
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